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From: jerry@eteklabs.com (Scott "Jerry" Lawrence)
Newsgroups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting
Subject: Tron -> Satans Hollow (long - with pinouts!)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 1997 14:52:08 -0400
Organization: e-TEK Labs
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Hi all. Last night I converted my Tron Mini into a dedicated
Satans Hollow. It's not as easy as i thought it would be...
First things first. Satans Hollow and Tron have quite a bit
in common, and they have almost as many differences. My
situation was this: I have a Satans hollow fullsize control
panel (with controls), a fullsize tron control panel with controls,
and a mini tron control panel without controls. I've got
2 Bally/Midway MCR/II board sandwiches. One with Tron eproms, the
other with Satan's Hollow eproms.
Needless to say, the tron mini cabinet had/has a tron wiring harness.
1) processor boards (the board sandwich):
easy switch. unplug the tron boards, plug in the satans
hollow boards. Any control changes will be made at the
control panel harness area. You could just replace the
roms in a tron machine with satans hollow roms if you like,
but you'll still have to modify the control panel wiring.
(tron & SH look for their player controls in different
locations. ie: joystick for tron is wired to J5 where in
SH it's wired to J4.
2) control panel
I decided to take the controls directly out of the satans hollow
control panel and install them directly into the tron mini control
panel. easier said than done. First, you have to remove the
old tron controls (which my CP didn't have.) You're going to
need a security allen wrench (not torx) to take the joystick
controller apart. seperate the 2 halves. Use a small phillips
to take the trigger switch mechanism off of the stick. (when
you re-assemble the stick, be sure to not screw these in too
tight - the plastic seems to break easily -- on the 3 sticks
i've seen, 2 were cracked, one was broken.
As for the spinner -- i have no clue how to remove the spinner
knob from the shaft. Both of these devices (joystick & spinner)
are held in with 4 3/8" nuts each. Remove these, and the 1 & 2
player start buttons from the tron cp.
The wiring for the SH parts needed to change. There was not enough
room for all of the SH controls, so i improvised. The spinner hole
is the right size for a new Happ microswitch pushbutton (but
unfortunately, not the old style leaf-switch pushbutton. I
de-soldered the 2 "Shield" leaf switches, and soldered on a new
yellow Happ switch. (the second set of wires i covvered with
electrical tape to keep them from shorting into something)
The mechanical connections were sooo close. As i said before,
the 1p & 2p buttons went right into their respective holes,
and the shield button had to be updated to fit in its new
home. The joystick (a 2-way stick) had to have some more
work done to it. At first glance, you'd think it'd just fit
right in. 4 screws in the control panel, don't line up with the
4 holes in the control panel. bummer. So I hack-sawed notches
from the screw holes on one side of the joystick chassis to
the edge of the stick (i'll put pictures of this on my website
eventually). 2 of the bolts go through the proper holes on the
stick, able to be mounted properly. The other 2 end up sitting
in the newly cut notches. that finishes that.
3) wiring harness. (gotta love molex connectors... hehe)
This was the most risky part for me. i wasn't quite sure how
i was going to do it until i had already started doing it. :}
I have the wiring diagrams for both Tron & Satans Hollow so I
traced through the wires needed to see what i had. I was in luck.
the wires i needed for satans hollow were in one of the 2 wiring
harnesses for the spinner or tron stick. The wires i needed
were there. I carefully removed all the pins from both molex
connectors at the control panel end in the machine. I did
this by sticking a pair of cheap needlenose pliers into the socket
end of each pin, and carefully pushing. With just a little pressure,
the pins came out. (I practiced this on a soon to be unused
pin). Luckilly, Bally/Midway was smart in that the color codes
used for the wiring harnesses here are based on the pins on
the board sandwich, not the function of the pin. (if you are
converting a tron to be a SH, but want it to be quickly
interchangable then this is not what you want to do... it worked
for my use!)
So all you need to do now is line up the colors. green with
black stripe, red with blue stripe, etc...
i put the unused socket pins into the other (larger) molex
connector, to keep them out of trouble. :)
incidently, I did trace the wire colord through just to be sure that
there were no anomolies. I didn't want to trust that the wires i
needed were the correct colors... but they were.
here are the color codes for the controls:
(color codes & pinouts taken from the schematics in the users manuals)
DO note that all other connections to all other boards are the same
between the two of them...
pin Color tron function satans hollow function
J4 1 BR-W 1 coin sw i coin sw
J4 2 BR-B 2 coin sw 2 coin sw
J4 3 BLU-W Select 1 Player Select 1 Player
J4 4 BLU-B Select 2 Player Select 2 Player
J4 5 B-Y 1 P fire
J4 6 BLU-Y Tilt sw Tilt sw
J4 7 W-O Service sw Service sw
J4 8 O-W Test sw Test sw
J4 9 Y-R sw return sw return (controls)
J4 10 R-W spinner D0 1 P Move left
J4 11 W-R spinner D1 1 P Move right
J4 12 B-G spinner D2 1 P Shield
J4 13 G-B spinner D3 1 P Fire
J4 14 *Key*
J4 15 O-G(R-BLU) spinner D4 2 P Move left
J4 16 BLU-R(Y-W) spinner D5 2 P Move right
J4 17 GRY-R(PURP) spinner D6 2 P Shield
J4 18 BLK-BLU 2 P Fire
J4 19 Y sw return sw return(tlt, svce, tst)
J5 1 PINK 1 P Move Left
J5 2 BLU-R 1 P Move Right
J5 3 O-G 1 P Move Up
J5 4 R-G 1 P Move Down
J5 19 *Key*
J5 20 W-BRN coin meter return coin meter return
J5 21 W-Y coin meter coin meter
J6 (only used in coctail version of tron for the encoder wheel)
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