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RAMPAGE PINOUTS (Midway, 1986)
--------------------------------

Rampage features three boards:  CPU, Sounds Good, and a Dual Power Amp.
These boards use male MTA (Mass-Termination Assembly) connectors in both
the .156" (large) and .100" (small) sizes.  You'll need several in both
sizes.  Power requirements are simple: +5V and +12V are all you need.

For testing purposes, you can run the 68000 CPU board without the SOUNDS
GOOD daughterboard.  Yes, this means that you can quickly power up the
game using only +5V, GND, and the video signals.  If you hold the TEST
pin (J2, pin 6) to GND, you can then ground the SERVICE pin (J2, pin 7)
to cycle through the self-test screens.  The practical upshot of all this
is that having an incomplete board set isn't a show-stopper.  You can play
the game quite nicely (albeit silently) without the sound board, with no
ill effects.


68000 CPU BOARD
---------------

J1 - Power Input (12 pins, .156")
   - The CPU board only requires +5V and GND, but if you want to draw +12V
     from the auxillary power connector, it's probably a good idea to connect
     it here anyways...
      1 - GND
      2 - GND
      3 - +5V
      4 - +5V
      5 - Key
      6 - Reset Out (unused)
      7 - GND
      8 - +12V (unused - see note on J6)
      9 - +5V
     10 - +5V
     11 - GND
     12 - GND

J2 - Inputs IP00 through IP17 (19 pins, .100")
   - P1 controls, sound status, coin and utility switches
      1 - P1 coin
      2 - P2 coin
      3 - N/C
      4 - N/C
      5 - Tilt
      6 - Test
      7 - Service
      8 - N/C
      9 - GND
     10 - P1 Up
     11 - P1 Right
     12 - P1 Down
     13 - P1 Left
     14 - Key
     15 - P1 Punch
     16 - P1 Jump/Start
     17 - N/C
     18 - N/C
     19 - GND

J3 - Inputs IP20-IP27, Outputs OP60-OP67, Coin Meter (23 pins, .100")
   - P2 controls, sound selection, coin meter
      1 - P2 Up
      2 - P2 Right
      3 - P2 Down
      4 - P2 Left
      5 - P2 Punch
      6 - P2 Jump/Start
      7 - N/C
      8 - N/C
      9 - GND
     10 - Strobe/SIRQ (to SOUNDS GOOD, J1, pin 2)
     11 - Sound 0 (to SOUNDS GOOD, J1, pin 4)
     12 - Sound 1 (to SOUNDS GOOD, J1, pin 3)
     13 - Sound 2 (to SOUNDS GOOD, J1, pin 9)
     14 - Sound 3 (to SOUNDS GOOD, J1, pin 8)
     15 - Sound Reset (to SOUNDS GOOD, J2, pin 9)
     16 - N/C
     17 - N/C
     18 - GND
     19 - Key
     20 - Meter Return (to GND on power supply)
     21 - Coin Meter
     22 - GND
     23 - GND

J4 - Inputs IP40-IP47, Outputs OP51-OP57 (16 pin, .100")
   - P3 controls
      1 - P3 Up
      2 - P3 Right
      3 - P3 Down
      4 - P3 Left
      5 - P3 Punch
      6 - P3 Jump/Start
      7 - N/C
      8 - Key
      9 - Stat 0 (to SOUNDS GOOD, J1, pin 6)
     10 - GND
     11 - N/C
     12 - N/C
     13 - N/C
     14 - N/C
     15 - N/C
     16 - N/C

J5 - Video outputs (9 pins, .100")
   - Video is separate sync only; there is no composite sync output.
      1 - Red
      2 - GND
      3 - Green
      4 - GND
      5 - Blue
      6 - GND
      7 - Key
      8 - Horizontal sync
      9 - Vertical sync

J6 - Aux Power Input (11 pins, .100")
   - This is not used in the "official" setup, but can be used if necessary.
     For instance, if your power supply doesn't have enough duplicate outputs
     to power up all three boards, you can use J6 to supply the other boards
     with any missing voltages.  If you want to use +12V on this connector,
     you'll have to connect the +12V connector on J1.
      1 - GND
      2 - GND
      3 - +5V
      4 - +12V
      5 - Key
      6 - Reset Out (unused)
      7 - Reset Out (unused)
      8 - +12V
      9 - +5V
     10 - GND
     11 - GND


SOUNDS GOOD BOARD
-----------------

J1 - Sound Selection/Status (9 pins, .100")
      1 - Spare (unused)
      2 - Strobe/SIRQ (from CPU, J3, pin 10)
      3 - Sound 1 (from CPU, J3, pin 12)
      4 - Sound 0 (from CPU, J3, pin 11)
      5 - STAT1 (unused)
      6 - STAT0 (from CPU, J4, pin 9)
      7 - Key
      8 - Sound 3 (from CPU, J3, pin 14)
      9 - Sound 2 (from CPU, J3, pin 13)

J2 - Power Input (12 pins, .156")
   - I'm not sure about the difference between the "A", "E", and "L" grounds;
     I've treated the "A"(udio?) and "L"(ogic?) grounds identically and had
     acceptable results.  Your mileage may vary.
      1 - A GND
      2 - A GND
      3 - +5V
      4 - +5V
      5 - +12V
      6 - +12V
      7 - E GND (unused)
      8 - Key
      9 - Sound Reset (from CPU, J3, pin 15)
     10 - Sound Reset
     11 - L GND
     12 - L GND

J3 - Audio Output (12 pins, .100")
   - Volume pot "A" and "B" signals go to the two "sides" of the pot.
     The "wiper" goes in the "middle".
      1 - Volume pot wiper (to POT)
      2 - Left audio out (to DUAL POWER AMP, J1, pin 2)
      3 - Right audio out (to DUAL POWER AMP, J1, pin 3)
      4 - A GND (to DUAL POWER AMP, J1, pin 3)
      5 - A GND
      6 - Audio out (unused)
      7 - Audio out (unused)
      8 - A GND
      9 - Key
     10 - Volume pot A (to POT)
     11 - A GND
     12 - Volume pot B (to POT)


DUAL POWER AMP
--------------
This is a small board which amplifies the signals produced by the
"Sounds Good" board and sends them to the speakers.  I got mine from
an Omega Race board set from 1981.  Judging from the age differential,
it's clear that these are fairly common boards and that they've been
used in many Midway games over the ages.  If you can't find one, you
can probably build an equivalent amplifier yourself out of spare parts;
any basic electronics text should tell you what you need to know to do
it yourself.

J1 - Audio Input (8 pins, .100")
      1 - N/C
      2 - Left audio
      3 - Left shield (from SOUNDS GOOD, J3, pin 4)
      4 - Key
      5 - GND
      6 - Right audio
      7 - Right shield (unused)
      8 - +12V

J2 - Speaker Output (6 pins, .100")
      1 - Right speaker +ve
      2 - Right speaker -ve
      3 - Key
      4 - Left speaker +ve
      5 - N/C
      6 - Left speaker -ve


DUAL POWER AMP WITH MIXER
-------------------------
You can also use a "Dual power amp with mixer" as opposed to the regular
"Dual power amp" board.  This board can handle (and presumably mix) four
separate inputs as opposed to two.  I've never seen one of these boards,
so again, your mileage may vary...

J1 - Audio Input (11 pins, .100")
      1 - L2 shield (unused)
      2 - L2 audio (corresponds to DUAL POWER AMP, J1, pin 2)
      3 - L1 audio (unused)
      4 - L1 shield (corresponds to DUAL POWER AMP, J1, pin 3)
      5 - Key
      6 - GND
      7 - R2 shield (unused)
      8 - R2 audio (corresponds to DUAL POWER AMP, J1, pin 6)
      9 - R1 audio (unused)
     10 - R1 shield (unused)
     11 - +12V

J2 - Speaker Output (6 pins, .100")
      1 - Right speaker +ve
      2 - Right speaker -ve
      3 - Key
      4 - Left speaker +ve
      5 - N/C
      6 - Left speaker -ve

 


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